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Moderators: oldjapanesebikes, H2RICK, diamondj, Suzsmokeyallan
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Admin
- Supreme UFOB
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problems in my message reply!
this is what I'm getting I can't make a reply to my messages.
Failed sending email :: PHP ::
DEBUG MODE
Line : 234
File : emailer.php
Failed sending email :: PHP ::
DEBUG MODE
Line : 234
File : emailer.php
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Admin
- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
to suzsmokeyallan
Hi Allan
I've already made the rack but to get it chromed I'd need at least 3.
as it would cost the same for 1 (........v.a.t @17.5%) when I'm back at work the chromers are on holidays and they're very busy at the moment,
so the earlies I can get them done is september.
if I'd got the rack off bob earlier I could have had them done by now.
yes by all means I will make the ...........handle(copy)
then add on the rear loop and bars.
I'll make you one with all the rear loops 'n' bars in exchange.
you just pay for postage to Bob
is that fair enough . john
I've already made the rack but to get it chromed I'd need at least 3.
as it would cost the same for 1 (........v.a.t @17.5%) when I'm back at work the chromers are on holidays and they're very busy at the moment,
so the earlies I can get them done is september.
if I'd got the rack off bob earlier I could have had them done by now.
yes by all means I will make the ...........handle(copy)
then add on the rear loop and bars.
I'll make you one with all the rear loops 'n' bars in exchange.
you just pay for postage to Bob
is that fair enough . john
-
Admin
- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
-
Admin
- Supreme UFOB
- Posts: 34711
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
rngdng wrote:You could try talking to her about it! It might work.
Lane
What! are you mad!!
In my many years of experience dealing with the fairer sex on the subject of frivolous (to non-enthusiasts) purchases, it's much easier to seek forgiveness than it is to seek permission.
What's the worst that could happen? If I have to live in the shed, my lounge-room will be full of bikes!
Thanks to all that replied. I have about a 50/50 response from you all to the issue which is about exactly how I feel about it.
I am considering trading my RZ on the Kat which would help my bottom line a bit and eliminate the need to register four bikes if I want to ride all of them.
But, I have to make some repairs to it first as somebody was wont to run into me at an intersection on it the other day and I have to replace the taillight/fender etc.
Bugger.
Cheers
Paul
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Admin
- Supreme UFOB
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So many variables and so little hard data. here's a couple of random thoughts:
Steve's original question was what temperature changes occur while he's riding and what should he watch for. the simple answer to that is that your motor was designed to operate under normal operating conditions as supplied by the factory - so as long as it's stock and in good condition, it will be fine.
A CHT gauge is a great tool and kart racers use them all the time, but they take so long to respond that by the time you read a problem, the thing has probably melted down.
EGT's are a more useful tool as long as you know what you are looking for and can deal with the constant movement up and down the range. At low speeds and load they may read as low as 300 degrees and WFO under load they could be up to 1200-1300 degrees. All they really tell you is if the exhaust temperature is too high. If the reading is less than say 1100 we'd say that was OK.
When a motor detonates a strange thing happens, EGT drops and CHT rises - according to Kevin Cameron, who knows much more than I do. It seems that the destructive heat is 'dumped' into the head and piston so less heat goes down the pipe. So if you suspect that may be an issue you will need CHT and EGT gauges.
No one I know uses both because meltdown happens so infrequently on a well set up bike that we learn to ignore the gauges! If you had an overheat light conected to CHT and EGT gauges with max temps programmed in, that might be a nice touch, but it's not really necessary.
You could also use a wideband Lambda (Oxygen sensor) to see what mixture strength is like, but that's a bit of a waste of time and money too.
A more practical idea is to use a 4 gas analysis tool on the dyno and adjust jetting and timing to the right numbers and then just run it.
As to Mr Tuner's idea. I'd speculate that what he is seeing is a cooler head and more stable combustion chamber temperature and therefore more stable combustion.
Of course we all remember that the rate of heat transfer is proportional to temperature differential.
We also know that higher water velocity over a surface creates a higher heat transfer and that slow water velocity (large slow moving designs) allow for a steam barrier layer on the surface of the metal that slows down heat transfer, so slow moving water does not cool as well as fast moving water.
Plug temperatures (heat range) don't actually make the chamber hotter or cooler but are more or less able to conduct away heat and a "hot" plug may overheat and cause pre-ignition and/or detonation which then overheats the motor. If the plug gets too hot, fit a cooler plug.
Four stroke exhaust temperatures are typically lower than two strokes except in some race motors at WFO. I'd speculate that the reason is that in a two stroke there is more unburned fuel in the pipe that continues to burn in the pipe causing a higher EGT.
teazer
Steve's original question was what temperature changes occur while he's riding and what should he watch for. the simple answer to that is that your motor was designed to operate under normal operating conditions as supplied by the factory - so as long as it's stock and in good condition, it will be fine.
A CHT gauge is a great tool and kart racers use them all the time, but they take so long to respond that by the time you read a problem, the thing has probably melted down.
EGT's are a more useful tool as long as you know what you are looking for and can deal with the constant movement up and down the range. At low speeds and load they may read as low as 300 degrees and WFO under load they could be up to 1200-1300 degrees. All they really tell you is if the exhaust temperature is too high. If the reading is less than say 1100 we'd say that was OK.
When a motor detonates a strange thing happens, EGT drops and CHT rises - according to Kevin Cameron, who knows much more than I do. It seems that the destructive heat is 'dumped' into the head and piston so less heat goes down the pipe. So if you suspect that may be an issue you will need CHT and EGT gauges.
No one I know uses both because meltdown happens so infrequently on a well set up bike that we learn to ignore the gauges! If you had an overheat light conected to CHT and EGT gauges with max temps programmed in, that might be a nice touch, but it's not really necessary.
You could also use a wideband Lambda (Oxygen sensor) to see what mixture strength is like, but that's a bit of a waste of time and money too.
A more practical idea is to use a 4 gas analysis tool on the dyno and adjust jetting and timing to the right numbers and then just run it.
As to Mr Tuner's idea. I'd speculate that what he is seeing is a cooler head and more stable combustion chamber temperature and therefore more stable combustion.
Of course we all remember that the rate of heat transfer is proportional to temperature differential.
We also know that higher water velocity over a surface creates a higher heat transfer and that slow water velocity (large slow moving designs) allow for a steam barrier layer on the surface of the metal that slows down heat transfer, so slow moving water does not cool as well as fast moving water.
Plug temperatures (heat range) don't actually make the chamber hotter or cooler but are more or less able to conduct away heat and a "hot" plug may overheat and cause pre-ignition and/or detonation which then overheats the motor. If the plug gets too hot, fit a cooler plug.
Four stroke exhaust temperatures are typically lower than two strokes except in some race motors at WFO. I'd speculate that the reason is that in a two stroke there is more unburned fuel in the pipe that continues to burn in the pipe causing a higher EGT.
teazer
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Re: temp
Tuner is perfectly right in stating that head-to-base coolant path is the best. Why the factories didn't do it? heck if I know, but some authorities on tuning RDLC (banshee motors) do it… it's just a tad more complex than what it appears. You also have to take in account that factories want to see return on their crankcases' molds and dies (very EXPENSIVE pieces of machinery!).shannon wrote:well, I just went through every parts list i have on exploded parts list from honda and suzuki, ranging from tz750's, RG500's RS500's. right down to the humble tz125's and rs125's (over 30 parts lists) even some RSC and YEC performance supplements and NOT ONE bike has cooling from head to base.
Since some of the mods needed might include cases mods, it needs new molds and dies… The RDLC or RZ is based on the same cases from 85 to 90 something. Plus you have space limited inside your rolling frame, etc… All this to explain why it is easier to do on a factory race bike than on a standard mass-produced item.
BTW: I "THINK" the kawasaki KR1 coolant runs head to bottom… not 100% sure though. just a thought as I'm working on one now.
