Scenario. I have a 2000 Ford Explorer. 66k on the clock. For the most part it runs just fine. But lately and becoming more frequent, it won't start. You can get it to start buy pegging the gas pedal, but as soon as you let off the throttle - it dies. You might have to repeat this process 3 or 4 times before it finally takes hold and runs normally. Last night, it would not take hold and the wife barely made it home from work. The thing died every time she had to slow down or stop. I went out this morning and it was doing the same thing. Won't start without pegging it and immediately dies if you drop below 1500 rpm. Just like someone shut off the key. I toughed it out and drove it to the Ford place to see what the hell is going on. Of course, when I got there it was running normally.
I am no mechanic on todays complex vehicles. I did replace a thernostat in it a couple of years ago when it was over heating.
Now we all know that the thermostat is located under the water neck that's coming off the block - right? Wrong! The thermostat on this puppy is a 'fixture' between the block outlet and the upper radiator hose. I'm side stepping here. Once I figured out where it was, I replaced it and it cured the over heating problem.
But I don't really have a clue what the other 7000 miles of plumbing are for. I don't recognize anything.
So I assume it's some sort of sensor going bad that is causing the problem but that's just a guess. Could the oxygen sensor that screws into the crapylitiic converter be the culptit?
You might try buying an OBD11 code reader from Sears or NAPA etc and read the fault codes. if it's a sensor, chances are that will show up there.
It could be any one of a number of temperature or pressure sensors.
Any of the Auto stores like MIDAS or SEARS etc can run the diagnostics by hooking up an OBD2 reader and reading the error codes off their system, but they can be pricey.
I had a similar problem on a Ford Escort GT 1.8L motor. I concluded it was either the TPS or idle air control relay. Sure enough the TPS was out of spec and a wash in WD40 got it back close enough to spec but the symptoms didn't improve much.
In the end it turned out to be a split air intake hose from the filter on the inner fender to the MAF. It was a split in the bellows and that caused it to be too lean at low revs.
It's possibly a fuel pump problem but that's less likely.
BTW, FZR4/600 have a remote thermostat system to make it more accessible.
Oh man, sounds like this has valves, computers, and injectors.
Chris if your check engine light is on there is a sensor tripping it. Auto Zone and Oreillys will hook up a reader for free.
Do you smell gas when this happens? If so, might be old O-rings on your injectors are not holding the pressure in and causes hard starts. Easy to replace Orings if you can get to the injectors.
Does sound like something not telling something to do something.
Next?
Terry
Maybe poker's not your game, Ike. I know! Let's have a spelling contest~
I had a 99 Explorer and it did the same thing. Turned out to be the idle speed sensor. Part was about $35 if I remember correctly, but I had it done under warranty, so I don't remember what the labor was.
Wayne
Luck will beat skill any time you have enough of it!
I had the same problem with my 93 ford explorer, it turned out to be an O2 sensor. The difference between mine and yours though is that I couldn't get the bugger above 35mph. I was stuck in Truckee pass and coasted down hill to Reno. Man that sucked! The price was about $200 bucks. But that was in Reno, I don't know if that would be normal in a non-emergency situation.
Why is "patience" a virtue?
Why cant "hurry the F*&$ up" be a virtue?
